Wednesday, July 6, 2011

CAMP RACE 290 skimo race crampon











ByJerry Johnson Ph.D.



Headed out the other day for a quick run up Hyalite Peak and
thought I’d try the new ultralight CAMP RACE 290
skimo race crampon. I’ve used regular crampons on my TLTs for some ice pitches
but had never seen the need for bootpacks. If the snow is that hard I usually
have an axe along. My initial impression is that a small crampon can save a lot
of energy especially when combined with a whippet. I didn’t really worry about
slipping out of small steps and basically just went straight up the 40 degree
gully. Ten ounces for crampons seemed like a good tradeoff for an axe. If I
needed both I’d want to have a different set of points though.







The 290 is marketed as a race
crampon, light and ten points - minimal. The heel attachment fits the tech
binding heel in any race boot. It’s supposed to be faster but it isn’t always
easier. In fact, it’s a bit fiddly. Overall fit on my TLTs was pathetic. Using
the included bar I could never get them to fit so I tried the
Dyneema linking strap. First
thing I noticed was that a little bit of metal on the heel that is supposed to
align the back of the boot prevented me from tightening the binding so I took
it off. After a lot of trial and error I got the linking straps just right. The
sideways fit is too wide for my boots so back to the linking strap and by
making so tight I could barely get the thing on, I finally managed to minimize
side to side movement at the toe – sort of. For my boot size the toe bail needs
some major bending but I’m afraid it might break so will live with it. On one,
I wrapped some rubber tape on the toe bail to make spacers so will try that
next time.











With
the Dyneema strap the crampons fold up super small package, they are so light I
just clipped the ankle straps together and hung them around my neck for a short
rock section – if you are interested in having these for the long term keep
them out of the rock. The soft aluminum will wear, bend and break.




Like
ski crampons, a lightweight aluminum crampon for the boot is not something you
are going to use all that often. They will come in handy occasionally though
and could be a useful bit of kit. For my money, I would probably opt for some
other model that weighs a couple ounces more but has twelve points and fits my
boots better. For racers, this is likely all you need as most sections will be
relatively short. For the sort of things I do here in Montana and in Idaho, a
light crampon and whippet would replace both ski crampons and an axe; I can
leave the heavy crampons at home – not a bad trade.



Jerry in his own back yard




Postscript:
On a tour today I became a true convert. My whippet in one hand and crampons on
my
feet, down climbing a spunky mixed gully was possible
and saved me an hour of sketchy scrambling on typically loose Hyalite rock. The
crampons have found a permanent place in my spring skiing kit.




Editor's note:



This from a buddy of mine after playing with them mid climb/transition and a little less patience than normal :)



"Yeah, I'm not a big fan of those. It was an interesting idea but I
practically had a stroke trying to get them on and off when they were tight
enough. Fucking pissed me off. Never bothered with a review because they
sucked so bad. I'm a huge fan of the Grivel Haute Routes, though. Just
wished the points were a half inch longer."


I also tried the CAMP 290. I was jonesing over this crampon from the first day I saw it at Summer OR a few years ago. Brilliant idea IMO on the heel attachment point. Turned out while brilliant I simply couldn't get the damn things to work on my size 29 boots. In frustration I finally gave them to Jerry. And watched him fit them to his own size 27 TLTs with a lot less issue. A bit of bending on the front bail and they looked good to me and GAWD only knows how analI can be about crampon fit. Turns out a few of us with bigger feet have had the same problem. The fit sucks. Now CAMP will be the first to tell youthat if you are bigger than a 28 shell size don't bother. I'd lower that suggestion to a 27 shell...and TLT size 27 at that. And I suspect still takes snapping off the center heel support to get right. Try before you buy on these guys is my suggestion. I love the idea and I know what needs ot be fixed for my TLTs, the front bail and back heel support spacing. No clue what boots these are suppose to work on. But if you have THAT boot, I suspect these little guys will really rock for the intended purpose.



For the rest of us the CAMP XLC Series has been my go to LWT crampon for the last half dozen years anyway on both mountain boots and most recently my AT boots. Way less fiddling around with fit and security. One thing I would disagree with Jerry on from my use of the XLC 390. They are way tougher and more durable than they look or have any right to be.



http://www.camp-usa.com/products/crampons/xlc-390.asp









I'll do a short blurb on these later amid a LWT crampon comparison . But if you can get away with a LWT *ALL*aluminum crampon for your own use...buy the 390. It is an exceptionally solid and well receivedall around crampon with a hard earned reputation for reliability and no worries.











RACE 290


• New for

• Competitive Ski Mountaineering

• 7075 T6 aluminum alloy construction

• 10 points for a solid hold on steep terrain

• Different colors for the left and right for fast and easy identification

• Dyneema linking strap reduces weight and allows the crampons to fold onto themselves for packability

• Patented heel attachment designed for rapid attachment to modern A/T boots

The new lightest crampons in the world and the new go-to crampons for competitive ski mountaineering. The patented heel is designed for rapid attachment with the fastest A/T boot models typically made for Dynafit or similar style lightweight backcountry bindings. The Dyneema linking strap reduces weight even further and allows the crampons to be folded onto themselves for packability. Solid aluminium linking bars are also included for a more rigid fit if desired. Anti-balling Plates optional. Carrying bag included.

SPECS

ID: 318

Material: 7075 T6 Aluminum Alloy

Points: 10

Binding: Rapid (Dynafit)

Anti-Balling Plates: Optional

Crampon Case: Yes

Size: 36 - 44 cm, 14 - 17.5 in

Weight: 290 g, 10.2 oz

$179.95 USD

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