Orange Pepper

This 'California Wonder' bell pepper is almost ready to be picked. Anyone have some good recipes using bell peppers?

I think that I shall never see...

This morning I had some errands to run in Columbia City. Afterwards, it being such a nice day, I didn't feel like going home - so I went to visit Grandma Jones as well as Grandma and Grandpa Dunfee. Elizabeth Helms Jones is my 4th great grandmother. She died in 1883 and is buried in the Masonic Section of Greenhill Cemetery in Columbia City. Not far from her grave is that of her daughter and son-in-law, Catherine and William H. Dunfee, my 3rd great grandparents. Catherine died in 1903 and William in 1888.

I love going to cemeteries, especially when no one else is around. They are among the most peaceful places on earth. Greenhill is a large cemetery and is usually busy with visitors. But today I was lucky, there wasn't another living soul around.

The graves of Catherine and William lie in the shadows of two large conifer trees. The trees are dying, but they are still magnificent. This first picture was taken in October .. and shows the convoluted branches of the larger tree. As you can see it was very much alive, still green. The rest of these pictures were taken today between 2 and 3 p.m. The larger tree no longer has any green needles left. The smaller, taller, straighter tree still has quite a bit of green showing. Please, click on the images to view a larger version. . .





And yes, I know this picture is weird, but I like it! Even if it does make me look bigger than I am. LOL.
Of course, I can't end this without including the poem "Trees" by Joyce Kilmer.
I think that I shall never see
A poem lovely as a tree.
A tree whose hungry mouth is prest
Against the earth's sweet flowing breast;
A tree that looks at God all day,
And lifts her leafy arms to pray;
A tree that may in Summer wear
A nest of robins in her hair;
Upon whose bosom snow has lain;
Who intimately lives with rain.
Poems are made by fools like me,
But only God can make a tree.
From Toucan Radio I learned that Joyce Kilmer was born in 1886, and lived most of his short life in New Jersey. He was killed in 1918 in France, in the second battle of the Marne. Before he enlisted in the army, he was on staff at the New York Times, and as a Catholic convert, wrote religious inspired poetry. He wrote Trees in 1913.

Dessert at Farmers'

Dessert at Farmers', originally uploaded by ParsecTraveller.

The San Luis Obispo Farmers' Market is much more than just a place to buy fruits and vegetables. You can get culinary delights such as tri-tip sandwiches and teriyaki bowls to churros and strawberry shortcakes like the ones seen in this picture.

Camp Patriot

The LA Times interviewed Incident Commander, David Gottlieb, regarding the most recent tragedy on the Muir Snowfield. The details are heart wrenching.

On a much more positive note, wounded veterans from Iraq and Afghanistan are aiming for Rainier's summit. Backpacker Magazine did a story (Shock and Awe) about last year's achievement. That extraordinary effort put a blinded Army Captain on the summit. Look for the team from Camp Patriot on the Disappointment Cleaver later this July.

Speaking of routes, folks are climbing them. We've updated the route conditions page, and posted information about successful attempts on the Emmons and Gibraltar Ledges. Have a great weekend.

Mating Damselflies, Swamp River

I paddled 13 miles on Swamp River yesterday and saw several critters but the highlight of the day was seeing all of the damselflies in the grasses and on the lily pads along the edge of the river. They are so small, most people probably wouldn’t even notice them. These little guys are only about an inch and a half long. Once you notice them, it’s hard to take your eyes off them (they are also quite hard to photograph, since they usually don’t sit still for very long). Adding to the difficulty was the wind. It was quite hard to capture these critters when the grasses were blowing around so much!

Pegasus

Another sculpture at the Brookgreen Gardens and this one has the honor of being the sculpture that took the longest to create. Nine years in fact. It is worth it. And I say that knowing I wouldn't have the dedication to last nine hours on the project.





And a nature shot from the same beautiful place:

Petzl ERGO

Ueli Steckon the m6 Direct Startto the Super Couloir.Jon Griffin photo and link here:



http://www.alpineexposures.com/blogs/chamonix-conditions/1438782-its-been-a-long-10-days



The original Ergo was one of the new tools that started the mixed tool explosion. That was several generations ago now and it is obvious that dbl handled tools are here to stay. Once thought an esoteric in design and for the specialists only it became a pretty common place design along with the BD Reactor and other newer tools from a few companies playing catch up.













Then the Nomic came out. Even more radical in design and appearance it didn't take long for almost everyone to realise just how good the Nomic was and how much easier it made ice and mixed climbing. The radical shaft shape and lack of hammer didn't stop the Nomic users from getting on everything from easy alpine ice to hard M8 all with the same tool. And amazingly almost everyone happy with it!



The newest Ergo is another big jump in shaft and handle design. You now have an extremely high clearance shaft and the option of three supported hand positions.





To be honest I am still learning how to climb on a Nomic after 5 seasons and figure I have yet to fulfill its potential.



The new Ergo is a big step up on the Nomic's potential from what I first see, visualise and can act upon even now.



Another look at the new Ergo here with good pictures:



http://rafalandronowski.wordpress.com//02/12/petzl-ergo-at-haffner-creek/



More here from someone who can actually use the new Ergo as intended:



http://machavok.blogspot.com//10/petzl-ergo-mixed-climbing-tool-review.html



In the grand scheme of the Ergo I am a gumby climber. But then I am a gumby as well when you look at who the Nomic was designed for. It is a true stroke of genius to have a tool like the Nomic that climbers at any skill can take advantage of. The question is can a gumby take advantage of what the Ergo has to offer and will it up your game over the Nomic?























































For what it is worth the Ergo is an amazing piece of kit even for a beginner on mixed. Easy or hard terrain and with no concern for your climbing ability imo the Ergo is a rather big step up in performance over every previous ice tool I have used. There is little question it really excels on vertical terrain, mixed or ice. But you can just as easily climb Grade 3 water ice with the Ergo as you can with an original Quark or a Nomic for that matter. The more horizontal grip of the Ergo really has a grip strength advantage over even the Nomic'c excellent grip profile. Enough so that the Ergo's grip kept me on a climb that I should have and would have blown off an Nomic's grip when I popped both feet trying to get onan icicle while coming off mixed terrain.

The new grip angle is a big advantage on difficult terrain and doesn't seem to have any down sides or easy terrian that I can tell. It is easy enough to move your hands up the shaft as the terrian looses angle. The other big advanatge I see form the previous generation of Nomics is the serrated lower grip pommel. The serrated steel blade really does offer good bite on the ice and makes the tool much more stable. More so than I ever thought it would. Big plus here. Down side is the Nomic and Ergos pommel attachment design is seriously flawed and is prone to quick failure. Which makes the tool pretty worthless.

I really like this tool. Much more so than I had ever envisioned. It works very well on any mixed or pure ice terrain. Even the easy stuff and is exceptional on the vertical stuff. I can see this being the only tool many climbers will own and they will be satisfied by doing so.The only down side from a huge positive recommendation for a beginner wanting to climb harder and get better, tothe proficienthard core mixed master, is the poor pommel design that Petzl is obviously going to have to fix sooner than later.

But there is enough advantages to the new shaft design that I am going to figure out a away to make my set of Ergos reliable enough to take ontosome serious alpine mixed terrain.

(see the other post for the details on the Nomic Ergo"failures")

The Birds at Huntington Beach

When we visited Myrtle Beach State Park, we asked about Huntington and the lady who worked there said, "We have a fishing pier and they have alligators". While we didn't see alligators, we did see a lot of other animals including birds.



I love watching birds on the beach. They just go hand in hand to me.



When we visited the store here, I was chatting with an employee. We talked about workamping and what went along with it. She told me her two most interesting things to date were when the alligators were mating and the males went in the campground area and did not want to leave causing quite the stir and an incident involving a snake.



I almost don't want to share the snake one, because it might stick in my mind and I might not want to stay here after all.





Ok, I guess I'll share it. A young man was looking for turtle shells and he came across a water moccasin instead, landing him a nice bite from the snake. By the time he made it to her, his arm was turning black. Can't say I would want to encounter either one of those things, but I still do love interacting with animals in nature.









I am really going to miss this when we leave here!

Gunks Routes: Gaston (5.8-)

(Photo: Past the pro-less start on Gaston (5.8-).)




Maryana and I were looking for something new to do on a beautiful Saturday in April, and it seemed like if we wanted something out of the ordinaryour timing couldn't be better, since we might not have any choice in the matter.We arrived at the West Trapps lot in the morning to find it was already nearly full, even though the temperature was still in the low 40's.As we walked down the carriage road it seemed like all theusual suspect climbswere occupied. It was the perfectoccasion for usto jump on something unpopular, something obscure.




When wepassed the connector trail I looked up at the cliff and saw theexpected sights. Climbers were on Arch (5.5). Climbers were on Strictly From Nowhere (5.7). But as usual no one was on the no-star climbs nearby: Calisthenic (5.7), Gorilla My Dreams (5.7), or Gaston (5.8-). And no one was on Splashtic (5.10a), a climb which gets a star from Dick Williams but which seems always unoccupied because the first pitch is 5.10 and the second is 5.9 R.




I was intrigued by Splashtic, because it seemed from the description that the crux is really one move, early in the first pitch. Looking it over on Saturday, I thought it looked doable and protectable. Maybe this was a good 5.10 candidate for me? I wasn't interested in the R-rated second pitch (although it sure looks exciting...) but I figured we coulddescend from the threaded anchor atop pitch one or continue with the upper pitches of another climb.




I was also interested in Gaston, because it has a reputation for being underappreciated and somewhat tricky for its 5.8- grade. I'd heard the upper pitches, which are just 5.5, were also good.




Maryana thought Gaston was a better choice for a warm-up than Splashtic so we were set.




Dick's guidebook describes the first pitch as going up a ramp and then moving right past a bulge. Then thin climbing left past two pins was supposed to be the crux.




For me the crux of pitch one was the lack of pro low on the pitch. There is nothing for at least fifteen feet or more. I went up the easy ramp and then expected to find something. But I didn't.




Then another move up and left onto a ledge. Still pretty easy climbing, but I was still lookingin vain forsome placements.




Finally I found gear, but it was to the left of the route. Theclimbingclearly went to the right through the bulge. I had two pieces but they were off-line.




After trying out a couple of different approaches I committed to the surprisingly thin holds and got through the bulge.




Then I think I got another piece, something micro, before moving up and left to an angle piton. (Dick mentions two pins but I guess one has since disappeared.) I don't remember these supposed crux face movesas tricky. There was nothing as thin as the move at the bolt on Wonderland (5.8-), for instance. All I really rememberwas wishingI had more confidence in the gear.But once I clipped the pin it seemed everything would be okay. The rest of the way I felt both the climbing and the gear were casual enough.




At the end ofthe pitchI felt like in retrospect there was JUST enough pro. And the climbing was nice; it was clean andinteresting. Maryana pointed out that I'd missed the key placement. There is a place right below the bulge where a runner could be threaded. You can see it in the above photo over to the right of where I have a sling connected to the blue rope. I had pro at the same height but off to the left. It would have been better-- I would have felt better-- if I'd found this placement.









(Photo: Maryana at the final overhangs on the 5.5 pitch two of Gaston.)




The next surprise on Gaston was that the threaded anchor atop pitch one was gone. I built a gear anchor and brought Maryana up. We had been thinking we'd rap after pitch one and go do something else, but nowwe wereforced to do at least one more pitch.




Maryana led pitch two and itturned out to bevery nice. We both enjoyed it. While pitch one features interesting face climbing, pitch two is moretypical Gunks terrain, with good features in a huge corner systemand plentiful horizontals, leading up and left to some final overhangs with jugs.




One we reached the GT Ledge we had an easy walk over to the bolted rappel route to our left. But I thought it was a waste not to finish the climb. We'd come this far. Would we ever bother to come to this spot again? Might as well do pitch three. It looked like a short romp up to a roof. Why not do it?









(Photo: Most of the way through the 5.5 pitch three of Gaston.)




I led the pitch in about five minutes. I'm glad we did it. It reminds me of the top pitch of Minty. It is a little harder and the move out to the roof is a bit more exposed. But it is very similar, featuring a nice corner and then another juggy overhang. Good fun.




I think Gaston is definitely underrated at no stars. It has a lot of quality climbing. Each pitch is worthwhile. The rock is good. It is clean. It should have at least a star. I think if the two 5.5 pitches were not guarded by the tricky pitch one this climb would beextremelypopular with new leaders.




As it is it should be more popular with moderate leadersof all levels of experience.

Fan Frond

A view up through the fronds of a Mexican fan palm.

Coco the Obedient One...Sort of....

Anyone who know Auburn and Ace, knows how well trained Ace is. Coco, on the other hand, not so much. Don't get me wrong. She is a great dog. We don't have any trouble with her. It's just comical to us to see her version of dog obedience after being around Auburn and Ace.



Here she is walking with Aric. I love this picture of the two of them. She seems fully engrossed into listening to him. She seems to be saying, I am your dog. You are my boy.

You are Master. I am dog. Lie down....no problem!

I'll just stay here. With you. Until you let me know when I can get up. Or until.....

something else distracts me and I forget all about you....

Living the life in Florida with our adorable free range Merle-like dog!

Why Fixed Gear?

I have been riding fixed gear bicycles for about a year and a half now, and enjoy it so much that it is hard to talk about without getting embarrassed. Here in the Boston area, fixed gear is associated with a distinct cultural attitude and fashion sense, and I do not fit the mold. Seeing me on a bicycle with a fixed drivetrain often seems to surprise people, and I've been told on more than one occasion that I "don't seem like the type." While I suspect this is mostly used as a conversation starter by men, it still succeeds in making me self-conscious. What is it about fixed gear that I like so much and why do I "need" this type of bicycle?

I first tried a fixed gear bike in June . I was staying in Vienna and pining over the nearby velodrome's summer closure, and a friend offered to teach me to ride a track bike so that I could ride around the velodrome building (this seemed very funny at the time - around the velodrome, get it?). I was afraid to try it at first, but as soon as I got on the bike I didn't want to get off it. It felt so natural and intuitive. My friend ended up leaving the bicycle with me for the duration of my stay in Vienna and I rode it in the park after work every chance I got. Cycling slowly due to the lack of brakes, I must have looked like an idiot, but didn't care. I discovered that on fixed gear, my bicycle handling skills somehow improved. I could make tighter turns, cycle through narrow spaces, control my speed better, and just be more in control. It felt as if I suddenly gained a better understanding of how a bicycle worked. The custom Italian track bike made for a now-retired racer felt unexpectedly comfortable, save for the curvature of the handlebars. I could ride this thing for hours with a silly smile on my face. It became clear during those rides that I needed a fixed gear bike of my own once I returned to the US. A friend of a friend sold me a good road frame for fixed gear conversion, and I mailed it to myself in Boston before leaving Vienna.

Waiting for the road frame to arrive (it took over 3 weeks!) I couldn't stop talking about my experience with fixed gear, and just for the heck of it one weekend the Co-Habitant and I converted the Motobecane mixte I then owned to a single speed with a fixed/free flip-flop hub. Doing this was easy and inexpensive. We picked up a budget wheelset, modified the existing crankset, shortened the chain and that was pretty much that. I rode this bicycle around the city and out to the countryside, and it was great fun. But I mostly thought of it as a novelty. On an upright bike, I preferred a freewheel. This bicycle was a great hit around the neighbourhood though, especially when I fitted it with some colourful dressguards. The woman who later bought it planned to use it as a freewheel single speed, but liked the idea of having the fixed option by flipping the wheel.

Finally the vintage road frame I'd bought in Vienna arrived in the mail, and we quickly put it together. You might recognise this as the previous incarnation of theMoser I now ride as a geared roadbike. The tires here look huge, but they are 28mm Panaracer Paselas - the frame had just enough clearance for them if I did not use a rear brake. I rode this bike a lot, and particularly enjoyed it once it began to get cold. There was something about cold and dreary days on a fixed gear that was just magic.But while I loved riding the Moser, it became apparent over time that the frame was not really suitable for fixed gear conversion due to its very low bottom bracket. As my speed on the bike increased I started to get pedal strike when cornering on bumpy or uneven roads, and did not feel that this was safe. Last winter I began to look for another frame, which did not prove to be very easy given my criteria (lugged steel, horizontal dropouts, high bottom bracket, small size,and no toe overlap). I considered getting a frame from Royal H., but could not afford it. I considered the new SimpleOne from Rivendell, but learned that they would not be making one in my size. And that is how I came to be in possession of a Mercian.

By the time I ordered this bicycle from Mercian, I had a good idea of what I wanted in a fixed gear. I did not want a track bike, but a comfortable and somewhat relaxed roadbike that just happened to have afixed gear drivetrain. I wanted to fit it with 28mm-32mm tires for road and occasional trails. I wanted it to have tame handling without feeling sluggish. All of this was done. When I began to ride this bicycle after we put it together, it was just the feeling I wanted. It is comfortable, intuitive, has no toe overlap or pedal strike, and I can ride it for quite a long time without getting tired.

So why fixed gear and what do I like about it so much? If I have to pin it down, there are two distinct elements of this type of bike that I enjoy. First, I simply find it soothing and pleasant. The motions my legs make on a fixed gear feel different - more circular and rhythmical.In that sense it is really not about speed at all, but about being able to ride with smooth and regular pedal strokes and enjoying the state of mind this puts me in. I find this to be very relaxing when I am stressed out. Even just riding in circles around the neighbourhood, the magical sensation of the drivetrain never fails to calm me down and clear my head.

Second, I feel that riding a fixed gear roadbike helps me with technique. My movements feel more elegant and precise, and I can sense that I am developing a more intuitive sense of balance. I play games where I try to keep the bike going at all costs - slowing down to a crawl before a traffic light rather than stop as I wait for it to turn green. I also like to see how fast I can accelerate under different circumstances, and play "sprinting" games until I get out of breath. This is much more interesting to do on a fixed gear than on a freewheel bike, because once you get the drivetrain going it feels as if it "helps" you. All this may sound silly, but somehow I feel that things like this really help. Fixed gear bikes feel playful and very safe, which encourages me to try all this stuff that I would not normally try. Slowly but surely, I can tell that it improves my geared roadcycling skills - including the somewhat "duh" realisation that if I continuously pedal and feather the brakes instead of coasting, then I will feel more in control of my geared roadbike as well.

But all this talk of technique is probably beside the point. When it comes down to it, we do things that we enjoy and fixed gear is for me simply one of those things. I can't imagine not owning a bike like this. I begin to get fixed gear cravings if I don't ride one for more than a week. Luckily, that should not be a problem.

The skiers are taking over!

New snow and warm temperatures this final weekend in June brought out the most skiers I have ever seen on Rainier. The DC, Emmons, Winthrop, and Fuhrer Finger were all skied. The ski conditions were great for the most part. The snow was firm but somewhat punchy down to 13,000 feet. Conditions improved as the snow softened and became less wind- affected. There was good corn skiing from about 11,500' to about 10,000'. The snow became heavy and wet below that altitude. Above is a photo of one of those skiers descending the Cleaver. Although the skiing can be fabulous, be realistic about conditions and your ability, and be sure to be "on your game", as exposure to cliffs below can severely impact your outing in the event of an uncontrolled slip!

Conditions and weather have combined this week to give us stable weather and great climbing. Climbers summitted via the Disappointment Cleaver, Ingraham Direct, Fuhrer Finger, Kautz Glacier, Tahoma Glacier, Liberty Ridge, Winthrop Glacier, and the Emmons Glacier. Of course, the warm weather has its downside: rock fall and ice fall have increased exponentially, and a few routes have started to melt out... notably Gibralter Ledges, which had seen quite a few ascents this year.
--Adrienne Sherred - Photo by Andy Anderson

Spring Ruffed Grouse

Yesterday we had to run down the shore to do some errands and on the way home we stopped to do a couple of fun things. One of which was to stop at Cascade River State Park to see a Ruffed Grouse doing its annual drumming ritual. Ruffed Grouse "drum" their wings in an attempt to attract a mate. Usually they choose to do this from the log of a fallen tree, but this grouse has chosen a nice moss-covered rock to do his drumming. It is a beautiful location for the grouse to be but the lighting is best in the evening. Unfortunately we were there mid-day and the grouse was in complete shade while the forest behind him was in bright sun. If my camera had a flash I could have gotten a better in-camera exposure, however I have never owned a flash for my SLR camera. The highlights and shadows tools in Lightroom allowed me to edit my original image into a pretty decent shot, though. This photo was taken right after the grouse stopped drumming. After they've drummed they stay "puffed up" like this for a few moments, with their tail fanned out. From a distance these birds appear somewhat drab in color, but up close you realize how much detail and color is actually in their feathers. They really are quite beautiful birds!

Exploring by Sea

We all went on the boat today. I think it's the first that we've all been out there at the same time. Lauren's friend, Sarah, joined us too. I saw some new areas which made it really interesting. This is what we saw while driving around on the water:

The swing bridge at Gwynn's Island. I've read that there are not many of these bridges left in the US. We just so happened to come across it as it was moving. What a neat thing to see the entire middle section rotate so boats can pass by.

We had so much fun soaking up the local sights and nature this way!

Close up of Quail

here is another shot of the quail that I pulled in closer. You can see part of a residental section of Rio Rancho, NM behind him.

Black & White Yellow Rose

My camera has a black & white setting as well as the color and even a sepia tone setting so I decided to try the roses in black and white and sepia. Here is one of the yellow roses.